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Sunday 1st May and bright sunshine in a cloudless sky as it reached 55F, 13C after an overnight frost. Time to test the new Baader full aperture filter using Astro-Solar foil.
The Sun's disk with a 640x480 frame size camera setting through 32mm Meade 4000 ep full aperture 180mm Baader Astro-Solar foil filter.
The Sun resized from 3000x3000 on the Ixus 117 compact camera to 1000x1000 in PhotoFiltre. [32mm Meade 4000 S. Plossl ep. This image was taken with the refractor returned to a long straight tube to see if it helped to improve contrast over the folded form. Not visibly thanks goodness! Is that even a good thing? Any slight improvement in sharpness was probably due to the increased altitude of the Sun in the sky by the time I had finished the conversion. There is a very narrow deep violet rim if you enlarge the image by clicking on it. This fringe is completely invisible visually.
The short zoom, compact camera doesn't seem to be behaving as reliably it does on the Moon. There is no sense of a bright uniform disk against a black background in the viewfinder screen. Even the brightness varies across the disk. Giving it almost a pearl-like effect. I keep getting images of dirt and dust instead of the camera focusing on the Sun. This has never occurred before today. I have tried Auto and a whole range of program settings without much success.
There are quite a number of sunspots but they are all rather small. Stopping down the 7" lens to 6" and then 4" aperture seem not to have much effect other than loss of light and easier focusing requirement.
At focus there was no visible limb fringing at any aperture. Though the limb was 'boiling' for most of the morning, in the folded refractor form, it seems to have settled down now. This is despite the roof of the house being below the Sun in the sky from early afternoon. A gentle, easterly wind may be helping to carry the thermal currents away. I have just had to reverse the OTA to the other side of the pier as the sun reached further west. The 7" worm drives on the old mounting seem to be able to cope provided the OTA is well balanced. The OTA balance weight is very helpful to save trying to push the heavy OTA through the loosened rings.
The image shows the straight-tubed 7" f/12 iStar refractor following the sun on the MkIV Fullerscopes mounting on its massive, welded steel pier. The instrument's sheer size is difficult to judge even knowing the main tube is 8" 20cm in diameter and 2m, or over 6 feet long, without the dewshield. The pier flange is 5' [150cm] from the ground without the wheels fitted. The center of the saddle is 2m or 6' 6" above the ground. Even so it it requires a low chair to use the star diagonal as the telescope points higher. I have no great desire to add more mass to the focuser just to lift the telescope higher. So use the trailer jockey wheels when the OTA is in the long, straight tube form.
Lifting the OTA into place ideally requires a short set of builder's steps. Wide rungs are necessary for stability but only three, or possibly four, steps needed in all. The tall folding ladders shown with the telescope are quite stable laterally. But far too steep to provide the stability needed to climb effortlessly to the correct height when carrying a heavy OTA. I have had to rapidly step backwards onto the ground when the ladders have tipped towards me while I was holding the OTA in my arms! These ladders really need several extra pairs of hands to hold on at the same time! They also get in the way during fitting the OTA to the mounting. Only the permanently fitted, short dewshield is in place here. There being absolutely no need for the full dewshield on a warm and sunny day like today.
The telescope was left outside to cool until 10pm when Jupiter was close to the meridian. [South] As the sun had never fallen directly on the tube I imagined it had never really warmed up beyond the 13C, 53F maximum air temperature. The full aperture, solar foil filter should have protected the glass from any heat build up. The OTA certainly felt cool to the touch when I went out to find the temperature had dropped to 42F. Brilliant Jupiter had reached about 42 degrees local altitude. Unfortunately there was little to be seen beyond two dark belts and a hint of a third. No power I tried up to and over 250x made the planet any clearer. As usual, I tried the Yellow No8 and then the Fringe Killer filters but they made no visible difference to clarity. There was no finer detail, at all, to be seen.
The Sun's disk with a 640x480 frame size camera setting through 32mm Meade 4000 ep full aperture 180mm Baader Astro-Solar foil filter.
The Sun resized from 3000x3000 on the Ixus 117 compact camera to 1000x1000 in PhotoFiltre. [32mm Meade 4000 S. Plossl ep. This image was taken with the refractor returned to a long straight tube to see if it helped to improve contrast over the folded form. Not visibly thanks goodness! Is that even a good thing? Any slight improvement in sharpness was probably due to the increased altitude of the Sun in the sky by the time I had finished the conversion. There is a very narrow deep violet rim if you enlarge the image by clicking on it. This fringe is completely invisible visually.
The short zoom, compact camera doesn't seem to be behaving as reliably it does on the Moon. There is no sense of a bright uniform disk against a black background in the viewfinder screen. Even the brightness varies across the disk. Giving it almost a pearl-like effect. I keep getting images of dirt and dust instead of the camera focusing on the Sun. This has never occurred before today. I have tried Auto and a whole range of program settings without much success.
There are quite a number of sunspots but they are all rather small. Stopping down the 7" lens to 6" and then 4" aperture seem not to have much effect other than loss of light and easier focusing requirement.
At focus there was no visible limb fringing at any aperture. Though the limb was 'boiling' for most of the morning, in the folded refractor form, it seems to have settled down now. This is despite the roof of the house being below the Sun in the sky from early afternoon. A gentle, easterly wind may be helping to carry the thermal currents away. I have just had to reverse the OTA to the other side of the pier as the sun reached further west. The 7" worm drives on the old mounting seem to be able to cope provided the OTA is well balanced. The OTA balance weight is very helpful to save trying to push the heavy OTA through the loosened rings.
The image shows the straight-tubed 7" f/12 iStar refractor following the sun on the MkIV Fullerscopes mounting on its massive, welded steel pier. The instrument's sheer size is difficult to judge even knowing the main tube is 8" 20cm in diameter and 2m, or over 6 feet long, without the dewshield. The pier flange is 5' [150cm] from the ground without the wheels fitted. The center of the saddle is 2m or 6' 6" above the ground. Even so it it requires a low chair to use the star diagonal as the telescope points higher. I have no great desire to add more mass to the focuser just to lift the telescope higher. So use the trailer jockey wheels when the OTA is in the long, straight tube form.
The telescope was left outside to cool until 10pm when Jupiter was close to the meridian. [South] As the sun had never fallen directly on the tube I imagined it had never really warmed up beyond the 13C, 53F maximum air temperature. The full aperture, solar foil filter should have protected the glass from any heat build up. The OTA certainly felt cool to the touch when I went out to find the temperature had dropped to 42F. Brilliant Jupiter had reached about 42 degrees local altitude. Unfortunately there was little to be seen beyond two dark belts and a hint of a third. No power I tried up to and over 250x made the planet any clearer. As usual, I tried the Yellow No8 and then the Fringe Killer filters but they made no visible difference to clarity. There was no finer detail, at all, to be seen.
Click on any image for an enlargement.
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4 comments:
Hi Chris,
It looks like your preparations for May 9th are coming on really well: scope, solar filter, mounting and drive all sorted. And the quality of the full-sun images looks good too, which will emphasise the surprising smallness of Mercury's disc.
I know you're en route to acquiring a new imaging device to capture media files of the transit for stacking. Just a couple of suggestions based on my recent experience with the large Active Region the other week mah save you a little time:
* I found I needed a large opaque card to shield the laptop/PC monitor from sunlight else it was impossible to see the image preview and to achieve the necessary focus control. Knowing you, an impressively engineered frame will be built to hold the sun-shade in place: I just held it over my workstation by hand...
* The point of maximum interest when imaging is when Mercury first crosses the limb (it's egress for me at least will be too late in the day to still be able to see the sun) and one will need to move quickly to acquire the image of the tear-drop or not. This means some careful pre-planning of where on the solar limb to have the scope-and-camera setup pointing in readiness, and my experience is that anything one tries to do quickly will always go wrong if there's only one chance to get it right.
*'I would recommend practising as much as possible with the media capture software (FireCapture or similar) so you have the basic settings for resolution, frame rate, exposure, shutter speed, output media format etc all set up in advance and stored in a pre-defined config file: you don't want to be messing about with those on the day
* Don't forget to put the eyepiece back in from time to time and actually witness the event - it's all too easy to get carried away with the gizmos. I went all the way to Libya in 2006 for the total eclipse, and realised afterwards that I had spent most of the 4 min totality looking through the eyepiece of the camcorder rather than looking at the heavens...
Clear skies!
Andrew
Hi Andrew
Thanks for the useful advice. Eclipses are like cycle races. By the time you look up from the viewfinder the excitement is all over!
The supplied software is iCap not FireCapture. Do you suggest I use the latter? Not to worry: It seems the latest version does not support webcams anyway.
Local transit times are about 13.12pm to about 20.40pm. [Copenhagen]
Given that the new camera is only likely to turn up on Friday or possibly Saturday, I may not have time to familiarize myself with the software. Watching others doing it on YT is not the same as hands-on practice but I can try. There are quite a few hours to play around. Probably safest is to have a couple of telescopes set up with solar filters. One for visual and taking snaps and one with the camera attached.
The new filter looks like absolute crap! Probably because of the narrow, plastic, support rings I used. They flexed slightly as they were inserted into the alloy rim after struggling for concentricity during assembly. I should have made the rings a tiny bit smaller and taped the foil down all round instead of only at two corners. Then trimmed the excess so I could actually see the lower ring. Perfect hindsight is just another burden for the clumsily impatient to endure! ;-)
Keep up the good work!
Regards
Chris
Hi Chris,
Re filter assembly: an aluminium saucepan may be slight overkill: cardboard rings which fit the tube might be just easier to work with, plus some stout gaffer tape.
Re the capture software: there are some definite gotchas with iCap which the tutorial in the link below explains - a must before relying on it:
http://planetaryimagingtutorials.com/capturing/
I've been using IC Capture from the Imaging Source but with a Skyris camera - not sure if it supports Neximage5. FireCapture does, and is well regarded but also lots to learn.
To be honest, I'd suggest sticking to the afocal camera method - at least it works and you can see the results then and there!
Best, Andrew
Hi Andrew
Despite appearances I am not obsessed with pots and pans. ;-)
The choice of a thin, modified pan bottom for the filter housing was quite deliberate and logical. The objective cell has a permanent stubby dewshield fitted close around it. Handy for light dew and mechanical protection duties so an acceptable compromise. This inevitably causes clearance problems around the cell. The alloy rim and narrow plastic rings allow me to easily fit and remove the filter. Cardboard would be far too flimsy in such narrow rings and preclude fitting and removal inside the dewshield. The alloy filter rim is a snug fit on the cell and lies deep inside the dewshield. This avoids any chance of a gust of wind lifting the filter accidentally.
I have been enjoying the [excellent] YT guides and consider Fire Capture far too complex for a complete beginner to even begin to absorb. The iCap software may have a certain clumsiness in detail but has a user-friendly learning curve for a complete beginner at imaging like me. No doubt many imagers move on to more complex software having found the limits of iCap. The same is true of image handling software. Photoshop is absolutely mind blowing in its complexity for beginners but simpler software is fine for its intended purpose. When the limits of Paint and PhotoFiltre are eventually found then the more complex software is available.
If I get the camera in time I have a range of instruments, options and plenty of time to play. Weather permitting of course.
Regards
Chris
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