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I simply wrapped one lifting strop around the crossing of the posts. Then looped another strop through the first with a figure of eight knot. The chain hoist was hooked onto this hanging strop and the hand chain whizzed though to bring the lifting hook down to the bracket on top of the first 84lb block. I slipped a sturdy, stainless steel carabiner into the largest hole in the double bracket to connect to the hook.
There
was considerable resistance at first but then the tapered concrete
block rose slowly up though the compacted sand & gravel. The
next three blocks quickly followed and were laid out between the legs of
the quadpod to be buried again. Much more fun than digging with a
trowel while grovelling upside down at the bottom of a concrete pipe. It was interesting to see Archimedes' Principle on displacement hold true as the sand level dropped dramatically inside the pipe. It would be difficult to judge whether a footing would have the same anchorage qualities in open ground. The pipe offered a container to resist outward sand movement. As each block was removed the next lift grew easier. Simply because there was more room for the damp sand to move aside? Or because the sand was already disturbed? Probably a combination of both.
Before I bury the anchors again I have to decide on the quadpod's orientation relative to the building. Do I want to be able to walk straight into the building between two legs? Or pass by a single leg? This could effect the arrangement of the trapdoor ladder. The ladder was already close to one leg when I set up the quadpod to a 4' square base. There should be no contact between the pier and any part of the building's structure.
Then there is the matter of whether four legs are better than three. There is little chance of four legs rocking because the quadpod is not resting on an infinitely hard surface. The footings are likely to sink slightly to even out the base pressure on each. Bracing and cladding a tripod, if it proves necessary, is a much more complicated geometric puzzle than a four legged square pyramid. With all legs orientated parallel to the sides. The octagon would have been simpler to brace had its legs been orientated square to the building instead of being rotated to face the center.
Another day of gales and showers interrupted work repeatedly. I went around filling in gaps in the joists with more 2"x6". With the veranda floorboards intended to follow the octagon sides I have to ensure proper support for the boards. I finally fixed the third side of the veranda rim joists. It was all down to the middle joist pushing the rim joist away from the miters. Once the obstruction had been relieved by just enough the miters fitted nicely.
The compound miter saw is arguably the only reason I have reached this far. Being able to adjust miters and lay the blade over in one degree increments is a revelation. Miters cut with hand saws are strictly for those who enjoy the skill thanks to regular practice and experience. The incredible speed and dead flat cuts of the powered miter saw really have to be experienced to be believed. The minutest shavings can be taken to correct over-length or angle. The downside is that once something is screwed in place you can't easily bring the power saw back to make small changes. Not unless the component is removed again. Which is sometimes possible with screwed assemblies. Thanks goodness I didn't use nails!
If only the DeWalt rechargeable drill had another step or three of adjustable slipping clutch. It just hasn't the necessary torque to drive most screws home even at the maximum '15' setting. So it always has to be set to the direct "Drilling" option. Which means one has to be incredibly careful with the trigger to avoid damage or hand injuries even on the slow speed setting.
I see YT videos of carpenters using these same drills to drive home very long screws so perhaps I may just have a very poor example. Even with a maximum '15' setting it can't even drive home the short little screws for joist hangers! So it doesn't have a chance on the 3" and 4" specialized Torx wood screws unless the "Drilling " setting is chosen. Working on long screws between the joists is fraught with danger from the drill body twisting viciously as the screw head meets the wood! If I can handle 18' lengths of 2x8 or 4x4 working alone I'm pretty sure I'm not lacking in hand strength.
Still undecided how best to proceed with the tall pier.
Tuesday is dry but windy. I have almost finished the 2x8 veranda perimeter joists.Now I need to fill in the empty spaces with short, 2x6 joists to support the veranda floor boards.
Click on any image for an enlargement.
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