2" shaft mounting Pt.30: Housings second layer.


The first image shows the inside of the polar housing with one board removed. The inner edge of the boards is just starting to overlap the bearing seals. Though this is not a problem due to the flanges standing proud.

There is still some way to go before the boards reach the inner race or the axis shaft. This leaves the potential for more material to removed from the miters to sink the boards further. I didn't want to finish the miters to size until I was certain how the outer boards would fit over the inner boards.

Here the first outer board has been started. At 190mm starting width I am sneaking up on the correct size. Parallax makes the board look the correct width but it is still about 10mm too wide.

An extended line through the miters should pass though the center of the studs.

I am making faster progress on the  miters after wasting time trying to plane them from scratch.

An electric jig/stick saw set over to 45° is much quicker despite some difficulty starting each cut. The results are very satisfying provided the saw's sole plate is firmly held down.

Side view of one outer board clamped gently in place between the flange bearings. The sawn miter has been given a couple of strokes of the No4 and No5 bench planes just to tidy things up.

Still too early to worry about a perfect finish and the miters will become glue joints anyway.

I am using a good quality 24" 60cm steel rule/straight edge to check the miters are planed straight and flat. A try square with brass bevel is used to check the 45° angle.

More images tomorrow as I rough out more outer boards.

Getting the miters to a true 45° was difficult with a wood plane. In the end I used the jigsaw to rough out the slope. Then the bandsaw, fitted with a fence, to make the angles more accurate. A gentle skim with a No4 wood plane helped to flatten the cuts along their length.

The image shows the outer boards assembled with the inner boards removed. The kitchen worktop material is not perfectly flat and makes perfect joint closure another problem to be addressed.

I am now considering not using wood glue but adding heavy alloy angle to the outer corners of the housings. Studs with hex socket-head furniture screws would make a neat job of clamping the angles and boards tightly together. I have to be careful to miss the main, longitudinal studs with these cross studs. Not to mention missing the cross studs with each other.

Another image showing two layers of board. I gave each board a wallop, with a rubber hammer, to confirm whether the studs left marks. None were visible so it is not the studs stopping the boards from joining neatly.

And another image, showing how the inner boards just fit between the studs. These can sink no nearer together because of their miters meeting slightly too early. I re-fitted the fence to the bandsaw and took very thin cuts on the miters. This allowed them to settle slightly deeper together.

Note that I am now using much smaller images to aid those on slow internet connections. Having had a 55Mbits/s /55Mbits/s high speed, symmetrical fiber optic connection for some years may have made me complacent about image size and quantity when blogging. This is actually the slowest connection offered by my ISP and perfectly satisfactory for simultaneous HD TV streaming on two screens and computer use. They offer up to 500/500Mbits/s for 600DKK /80Euros /£67GBP /$106USD/ month . Those who do have faster connections need only left click on any image for a "close-up."

Click on any image for an enlargement.

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