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After endless trials and tribulations with planes I set up the bandsaw to take a tiny cut on each 45° miter of the inner boards. Once I was satisfied with the fit I decided to glue the miters together. Even if they didn't turn out perfectly square I could treat the box as a unit after gluing. Trying to balance the boards on each other was proving difficult until I clamped them solidly after gluing. As previously mentioned, the laminated strip, kitchen worktop material was not flat in any plane. The boards slide about on each other's miters. I have spent hours tapping away with a soft rubber hammer to equalize the inset of the boards relative to the bearing flanges. The studs [all threads] are now sitting proud of the inner boards. So I can no longer blame the inner boards for the outer board's fit. Particularly at the miter joints.
Once the outdoor, white wood glue has set, the inner box will slide easily over the studs.
Band-sawing produces huge quantities of fine, floury dust. So I have had to carry the heavy INCA in and out of the workshop to avoid hours of clearing up. I find it easiest to hold the frame against my chest with one hand under the motor.
Setting the INCA to 45° was impossible with the original table locking lever. So I substituted a large wing nut. I also rotated the motor on its axis to bring the switch in front. When I bought the INCA secondhand the switch was at the back of the motor. Which meant a lot of fumbling to find the switch. Not ideal in an emergency! No doubt some users will stand at the side of the machine and push the work away from them. Due to the lack of space I have always been in the habit of standing in front of it.
Here is the massive wooden housing after a quick sand to tidy up the clamping and cutting marks. The bare, wooden sleeve now weighs 7 kilos or 15.4 lbs. It is 5.5cm or slightly over 2" thick wall x 180mm [7"] square x 36cm [14"] tall.
When the flange bearings, studs and shaft are added the weight shoots up to over 50lbs or 24kgs.
I used a ball nosed router cutter to make the slots to accept the studs [all threads] in the outer boards before gluing. The inner boards were cut to fit nicely between the studs so needed no modification for clearance.
Here is the wooden, polar bearing housing with the flange bearings and polar shaft fitted. The galvanized studs can now be shortened once I have the end plates and washers fitted.
I had plans to add 2" wide aluminium angle profiles to the long edges of the wooden housing but it turned out slightly neater than I expected.
At 36cm [14"] tall the wooden housing is as long as possible with the present polar shaft length. [60cm or 24"] The shaft is flush with the bottom bearing and just long enough for the cylinder and large wormwheel, on its boss, at the top.
I put the 7" diameter cylinder back in the lathe to deepen the socket for the clamping bush. This was to bring it flush with the the top. I had left the bush slightly protruding which would need a hollow to be made in anything I fitted on top.
Click on any image for an enlargement.
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